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On a sunny Sunday (yes there was ONE), in the first week in April I attended a community meal that was the perfect example of Food-Love-Lancaster. Two friends and I arrived at East Chestnut Mennonite Church, a little past noon, to discover a social hall already full of happy diners. It was not the typical chicken potpie or pork with sauerkraut supper either. The adjacent kitchen was lined with long buffet tables, filled with dishes that I had never seen, or tasted before. The aromas were not familiar either. But the combination of the sights and smells made me eager to get in line and fill my plate.

This was a fund raising luncheon, hosted by Zemedkun Habtyimer, his wife, Redeat Abebe, and their friends at ECSMC and in the local Ethiopian community to help defray the costs of college tuition for the couple’s eldest daughter, Ruhama. I had learned about these meals from a friend who works at the Mennonite Central Committee, and her rave reviews of the cuisine sparked my culinary curiosity. So with a couple of my more intrepid pals I decided to explore a new food culture on a lovely spring day.

The Facebook invitation for the event described the menu as “a variety of spicy and mild Ethiopian food.” Now I have done enough casual reading about the country to know that Eritrean food is heavy in grains and vegetables and includes a wide variety of distinctive spice blends. I was also aware that it is served without utensils, instead using the native flatbread, Injera, to gather and hold the food. Now in the interest of full disclosure I must confess that I have enough problems with a fork and spoon at times. You do not even want me to begin to describe my legendary misuse of chopsticks. So while I was looking forward to a rich cultural experience, I wisely packed some utensils.
I assembled a generous plate of a number of unfamiliar dishes and let the exploration commence. The largest portion was a serving of Atkilt Wot, mostly because I knew a carrot when I saw one! This curried vegetable stew was a mélange of potatoes, peppers, onions, cabbage and carrots, flavorful but not too much heat. Next came Gomen be Siga, a combination of beef, kale, clarified butter, with tones of garlic and ginger. The heat was turned up, more than a notch, with the Miser Kik, spicy split lentils, simmered with garlic and hot Ethiopian herbs. The lentils appeared in a number of dishes, including an homage to the family’s American life, created by Redeat. This casserole of perfectly seasoned, baked lentils and tomatoes was dubbed “Ethiopian Lasagna.” There were a number of other delicious choices but at some point I had to stop taking notes and just chew. I have to admit that I enjoyed my Injera as well. This native bread is made from a fermented grain called teff. The resulting, slightly sour tang is a pleasant contrast, and a perfect balance to the spicy nature of the food. It also appeared to serve its utensil function quite nicely. My friend Audrey emptied two plates without any difficulty, using the Injera to gather it all. In fact a number of pre-schoolers present seemed equally adept. I stuck with my spoon and even slipped one to our friend Nancy at one point. My motto is “When in Rome…know your limitations.”
During trips to the buffet I tried to absorb as much as possible about the contents and customs that made up this feast. When I asked our host if there were any special signatures to Ethiopian cooking he promptly produced a small clear container of vivid, red powder. This spice mixture is Berberé, the flavor foundation for many Ethiopian dishes. In true Food-Love-Lancaster style I have cobbled together a recipe for you all to try.

Berberé
1/4 teaspoon ground allspice
3/4 teaspoon ground cardamom
1/8 teaspoon ground cinnamon (optional)
1/8 teaspoon ground cloves
1/2 teaspoon ground coriander (optional)
1/2 teaspoon ground cumin (optional)
1 teaspoon ground fenugreek
1/4 teaspoon ground nutmeg (optional)
1/2 teaspoon ground black pepper
1/4 teaspoon ground turmeric
4 to 6 tablespoons of a combination of ground cayenne pepper (red pepper, dried chile peppers, or red pepper flakes) and paprika
1 tablespoon salt
1 teaspoon ginger, fresh (peeled and grated) or dried (ground) use dried ground ginger if making dry berberé. Most recipes use different amounts depending on whether the herb is dried or fresh.
2 tablespoons finely chopped onions or shallots, omit if making dry berberé (optional)
1 teaspoon minced garlic, omit or use dried garlic if making dry berberé (optional)
1/4 cup oil, water, or red wine (omit if making dry berberé)

In a heavy skillet over medium heat, toast the dried spices for a few minutes — stirring or shaking the skillet continuously to avoid scorching. Remove from heat and allow to cool. If making dry berberé powder: grind the mixture in a spice grinder or blender, or use a mortar and pestle. Store the berberé powder in a tightly sealed container.
If making berberé paste: combine the toasted spices with the fresh ginger, onions or shallots, garlic, and oil (water, or wine). Grind together in a blender or with a mortar and pestle. Store the berberé paste in a tightly sealed container.
Starting with whole spices, the various nuts and seeds and dried red chile peppers, then pan roasting, grinding and mixing them will produce the most authentic berberé. However, perfectly satisfactory results can be obtained using already-ground or powdered spices.

Between bites, and in subsequent emails, I had an opportunity to learn more about Zemedkun, his family and the feasts that they hold throughout the year. The family are international residents, living in Lancaster County while Zemedkun works with the MCC on issues concerning the global food crisis, food security and other international programs. The eldest daughter, Ruhama Baykeda, is a sophomore at Eastern Mennonite University, majoring in Clinical Psychology and Social Work. Zemedkun and Redeat have used these communal meals to help defray the costs of tuition for her. In this way, the union of a typical feature of Ethiopian culture, the shared meal, with the generous spirit of Lancaster County has become the means to fund the future for their oldest child. The next Ethiopian Feast will be held at East Chestnut Street Mennonite Church on Saturday and Sunday, July 23 and 24. To learn more about this event, visit, http://ethiopianfundraiser.blogspot.com/